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 Monday, May 19, 2003
World Wine Education: Champagne

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Champagne in Brief Champagne Featured Winery
Champagne is the empress of all sparkling wines! Champagne with a capital C, only comes from the region of Champagne, other champagnes (from California, Spain, Italy…) are actually called “sparkling wines”. The French are very particular about this bit of information.

Champagne lies in the northeast of France, ninety miles from Paris. The climate is harsh and windy with a small number of warmer microclimates. The average temperature in most areas is about 50 degrees F, the minimum required to ripen grapes. The benefits of this are that it permits a long growing season, allowing the grapes to accumulate more flavor, and a higher acidity level, keeping the sugar levels low. In good years, the sugar-acid balance is ideal for sparkling wines. The best vineyard sites are high on the slopes where it is a tad warmer, and the risk for frost is lower. Soils in Champagne are rich in chalk under a thin layer of topsoil…excellent for drainage.

Champagne differs from the rest of France in the way they label their wines. Rather then labeling by area, they are labeled by house, (or producer). The reason behind this is that there are very few single-vineyard, or single-village wines because most Champagne is a blend. Most Champagnes are also a blend of vintages. Single vintage Champagnes are made in select “good” years – maybe three or four a decade. When you taste Champagnes you will notice a difference in quality between the large houses and the small producers. The reason for this is that the larger houses can afford to purchase grapes from the prime areas…the best raw material plus longer aging equals top quality Champagne. Champagne making is so unusual in that year to year, the blender must create a wine that is consistent in style and quality in keeping with their image. Each house and even each blender has their own secret recipe, the result can a blend of up to 70 different wines!

Champagne also has a rigorous classification system called “Echelle des Crus” – the ladder of growths. Of the 200 villages that are Champagne, only 17 have the prestigious “Grand Cru” status, where the grapes are rated 100%. Forty are rated “Premiers Crus” with grapes at 99 %- 90%. The remainder of the villages are labeled “Duexièmes Crus” with the grapes at 89%-80%. Occasionally a label will have one of these designations on it, particularly if it is vinted from Grand Crus grapes. Generally however, the wine is a blend and therefore not labeled with a classification.

Reading the label seems more difficult then it is. One must know a few terms in order to select the style of wine one likes: Blanc de Blancs – literally, white of white means that only Chardonnay grapes are used. These are light and fresh in style. Brut – very dry. Extra Dry – meaning “not dry” is less dry then Brut. Sec or Dry – these are medium dry. Demi-Sec – these are medium sweet. Doux – sweet. Rosé – pink Champagne, generally made by adding still red Champagne to the vat, or by allowing the black grapes to tint the juice in the vat.

The French continue to produce the world’s finest sparkling wines, and we continue to enjoy them.

Chateau de Mareuil sur Ay, Brut , Champagne Montebello

This esteemed wine was the house choice on the Titanic, as well as the wine of choice for the coronation of Czar Nicholas the 3rd. Today it is a lively fruity Champagne with a medium body and full flavor, at an excellent price.

Moët & Chandon

This is the biggest-selling Champagne throughout the world. The White Star is very popular in the US. It is well balanced with crisp apple and light yeasty-toasty flavors. The Brut Imperial NV (non-vintage) is their next tier with a heavier body and delightful fruit. The vintage version is a fairly weighty Champagne with tropical fruit overtones. Moët also produces Dom Perignon, one of the great, highly sought after wines that most of us know by name.
ProducerVarietalVintagePriceBuy Now
Moet & ChandonSparkling/Champagne1992149.99Details
Moet & ChandonSparkling/Champagne39.99Details

 

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