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 Monday, May 19, 2003
World Wine Education: Central Italy

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1. Central Italy is responsible for 25 percent of the country's total wine production!
2. Vernaccia di San Gimignano was named the first white DOC of Italy.
3. Chianti is Italy's most famous wine.
4. The Consorzio of Chianti Classico is called "Gallo Nero" or "Black Rooster". They can no longer label their wines with this label for the US market due to a lawsuit won by Earnest and Julio Gallo who use the same logo.
5. The two major cities of Tuscany are Florence and Siena.
6. Legend has it that Vin Santo (The Holy Wine) was made into a sweet wine so that children could sip it during mass.
7. Siena is sometimes considerd Italy's wine capital. But the Sienese don't seem to care, they are more interested in their art and the local horse race, the Palio.
8. In 1643 it was written that Vernaccia "kisses, licks, bites, slaps and stings".
Central Italy in Brief Central Italy Featured Winery
Central Italy / Central Tyrrhenian

Central Italy is comprised of the regions of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio. Each region is distinct in character but all were derived from the influences of Rome, the Medici Family and Francis of Assisi. The Etruscans were the first to cultivate the land with vines, then came the Greeks, then the Romans. There are many treasures to partake of in all three regions, both red and white. Many well known, and some newer on the scene.

Toscana / Tuscany

Okay, if there is one wine word everyone recognises it's "Chianti". Unfortunately we tend to visualize the old straw basket hanging in the local Italian restaruant, and we all remember the first sip.. riminescent of Easter egg dye. But never fear, good wine is here! Tuscany is Italy's best known region for wine. It claims four DOCG's: Brunello di Mantolcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Carmigano, and Chianti. All of these wines are based on clones of the Sangiovese grape. Tuscany also produces three white wines worth trying: Vernaccia di San Ginignano (dry),Vin Santo (deliciously sweet)and Orvieto (Dry). On top of these fine wines, there is a bevy of quality wines available in the DOC and vino da tavola (table wine) designations.

Chianti

"Chianti just may be the most accurate viticultural expression of the organized anarchy that is Italy, as the personality of the wine depends heavily on the personality of the producer." Exploring Wine, 1996. Legally, Chianit must be between 75 and 90 percent Sangiovese grape, no more, and no less. It can include other red grapes, but must include at least 5% white grapes, generally Trebbiano or Malvasia. Many producers illegally forgo the 5% white for Cabernet Sauvignon, however, those that choose not to blend at all and go for the 100% Sangiovese are not even allowed the Chianti designation. Chianti is divided into seven districts. Generally it is only Chianti Classico and Chianti Rufina that include the name of the district on the bottle label (at least for the export markets). Chianti Classico has applied for its own DOCG, something to look forward to. Some of the best producers in the region are Badia a Coltibuono, Brolio, Fontodi, and Monsanto. Larger producers include Melini, Antinori and Ruffino.

Super Tuscans

The latest buzz word is "Super Tuscan". Quite simply, these were unclassified Chiantis. Unclassified because they do not meet the requirements of a Chianti. However, today they are classified as DOC, made possible by the founder of Sassicaia (Nephews of Antinori). Some are made primarily of Sangiovese like Antinori's Tiganello, other labels are Bordeaux style vinted from Cabernet, Merlot and other Bordeaux grapes. Antinori's Sassicaia is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Chateau Lafite vines. These are big, bold, beautiful wines that age well. You can also look for labels from Badia a Coltibuono and Ornellaia.

More DOCG's

One of Italy's most expensive wines is Brunello di Montalcino created by Biondi-Santi. Brunello is 100% Sangiovese, picked very late and fermented a long time with the skins, and aged at least four years, producing a big age-worthy wine of elegance, grace and complexity - but don't forget your wallet! Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has been compared favorably with Chianti Classico. Producers of this wine are currently upgrading production methods, rebuilding its reputation. However, Montipulciano is better known for its Vin Santo. You can choose from Avignonesi, Fassati, Boscarelli, Poliziano and Tenuta Trerose. Tuscany's newest DOCG is Carmignano. This wine must be approved at an annual puplic tasting to achieve its DOCG status. It is up to 15% Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc, and worthy of long aging. Carmignano also produces a small amount of rose' and Vin Santo, both DOC wines.

White Wines

Italy's first DOC white wine (granted in 1966) is the Vernaccia di San Gimignano produced from a vine that can be traced back to the 13th century! Although Vernaccia enjoys a good reputation, most producers have not given up higher yields for higher quality, thus making this the wine of choice... for tourists. However, at its best it is complex and medium bodied with a refreshing acidity. Vin Santo is the holy wine of Toscana, made by producers of all sizes all across Tuscany. Origionally this was a dry white wine and the story goes that it was made into a sweet wine so that children could sip it during mass. The vinting of Vin Santo is a long, difficult process where the Passito grapes are carefully selected, long fermented and matured in oak for up to five years. It is traditionally served as an aperitif or with biscotti for dessert in a small glass with a very long stem. This wine has attained saint status as it is sweet, lucious and expensive. Look for Tenuta Trerose and Frescobaldi labels.

Lazio

Lazio is well known for its capital city of Rome, one of the world traveler's favorite destinations. Outside of the city is a vast expanse of land used for cultivation. 90 % of central Italy's white wine comes from the lazio region. High yields of Malvasia and Trebbiano produce simple, often undistinguished wines so fragile that they can barely travel a few miles from the vineyard to Rome withough being bruised and shocked. Export versions are definitely questionable. A few red wines are currently being produced here from Merlot, Sangiovese and Montepulciano grapes. Most of these wines are consumed locally and are a thrill to find when you travel to this area!

Umbria

Although surrounded on all sides by other regions, Umbria makes its own distinct wines. however, viticulture is not tops on their list, tobacco, grains and dairy are more important to this region's economy. Umbria is best known for its Orvieto soon to be granted DOCG status. It is produced in secco (dry), abbocato (semi-dry), amabile (semi-sweet) and dolce (sweet) versions. Orvieto was origionally a soft honeyed wine . Today most is produced as a dry wine from the Trebbiano grape. Look for Antinori or Castello della Salla labels. Umbria produces several reds with two of the newest DOCGs produced from a Sangiovese - based blend, Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Sangrantino di Montefalco. The most prominent producer being the Lungarotti family. Lungarotti produces this wine under the name of Rubesco. The Rubesco Riserva is aged eight years in oak, it is one of Italy's finest wines worthy of its DOCG designation.

Fontodi- Featured Winery

One of the most consistent producers. Their wines are usually excellent values. The 1997 Chianti Classico scored a 92 in the Wine Spectator and was in the top 100 wines of 1999.
ProducerVarietalVintagePriceBuy Now
FontodiItalian Red199824.99Details
FontodiItalian Red199744.99Details
FontodiItalian Red199529.99Details

 

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